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Where to Shop
Though not as well known for shopping as Hong Kong or Singapore, Bangkok is actually a great shopping city, with everything from international retailers offering haute couture to street vendors selling "antique" opium pipes and phony Rolex watches (that may be confiscated -- with no compensation -- by customs agents). Bangkok's most popular exports are its lovely silks and silk products, tailored suits and clothes, jewelry, celadon pottery, lacquerware, masks, carvings and antiques. If a price seems too steep, chances are you can talk it down. The language barrier isn't a problem: Every street vendor carries a calculator, and without a word spoken, the calculator passes hands sometimes six or seven times before a settlement is reached. Treasure hunters won't want to miss the Weekend Market at Chatuchak Park, on the north end of the city. Silom Road, near Patpong Road, is a hive of activity every night. Looking for designer shops? Bangkok's streets and malls are lined with them.

You'll find an especially large concentration of shops up and down Silom and Suriwong Roads. Small shops abound in Chinatown, north of the Grand Palace.

Note Be very cautious when buying antiques. Thais are not only famous for their excellent fakes, but government regulations are very strict concerning the exportation of genuine antiques, especially religious items (the export of Buddha images, old or new, is forbidden). If you do find something you like and it is authentic, be prepared for a mountain of paperwork. Before you can take the item out of the country, you'll need approval from the Fine Arts Department, which can take up to a month to obtain. Some reputable shops provide this service. One such place is The Fine Arts Department, Na-Pharathat Road, phone 221-7811.

Erawan Antiques, near the river, sells quality antique furniture, religious artifacts, bric-a-brac and reproductions. They're always willing to discuss the price. Monday-Saturday 9 am to 6 pm. 148/9 Suriwong Rd., phone 235-8981.

Krishna's Asian Treasures is a delightful shop where snarling lions, serene Buddhas and erotic ladies peek out of every corner. Four floors of antiques, semiantiques and reproductions. Balinese wood carvings, Burmese wall hangings, Ceylon masks, Indian and Nepalese jewelry and quirky things from local artists. 137/6-7 Sukhumvit Rd., between Soi 9 and 11, phone 253-7693 or 251-6867, fax 253-5792.

Many of the finer art galleries are located in upscale malls, big hotels (where exhibits come and go) and foreign embassies. Check the daily English-language newspapers, The Bangkok Post and The Nation, as well as Metro Magazine, for current exhibits.

One of the larger galleries is the Arts Center, displaying local and foreign artists. Monday-Saturday 9 am to 5:30 pm. Between Sukhumvit Sois 7 and 9, phone 253-7730.

Petchburi Gallery and Exhibition Hall showcases paintings and sculpture by local artists. Monday-Saturday 10 am to 5 pm. 1789 New Petchburi Rd., phone 251-2426.

Paris-New York-Bangkok Gallery is a swank venue with rotating exhibits. On the east side of the city, 245/9 Sukhumvit Soi 31, phone 260-9113.

SOGO Department Store, in Amarin Plaza, near the Grand Hyatt and Sukhumvit Road. Brimful of quality goods and apparel. Pleasant restaurant, too. Daily 10 am to 8 pm. 494 Ploenchit Rd., phone 255-0831.

Robinson Department Store, near the end of Silom Road, past Patpong, combines a supermarket (with garden-fresh vegetables), a restaurant and an extensive dry-goods area. A popular local hangout as well. Daily 10 am to 10 pm. 2 Silom Rd., phone 235-0471.

Central Department Store is a popular shopping center in the heart of the Silom Business district. Good quality merchandise with good prices. Silom Complex, 191 Silom Rd.

The World Trade Center encompasses many shops, restaurants, an ice-skating rink and duty-free shops on the 7th floor. Daily 10 am to 9 pm. 4 Rajdamri Rd., phone 255-9400.

Oriental Plaza is exclusive, with international fashions, art galleries and jewelry. Daily 10 am to 6 pm. 301 Charoenkrung 38 New Rd. (next to the Oriental Hotel), phone 236-0411.

Chao Phraya Tower Shopping Arcade offers designer boutiques, leather shops, Thai silk shops and art galleries. Daily 10 am to 7 pm. 23 Rongnamkhaeng Ln. (next to the Shangri-la Hotel), phone 237-0077.

On the other end of town, near the Siam Inter-Continental and Siam Square, is Siam Center, a huge complex filled with restaurants, flower shops and such names as Gucci, Lanvin and Polo. Daily 10 am to 10 pm. 965 Rama I Rd., phone 251-1890.

Mah Boonkrong Center, also next to Siam Square, is a colossal mall where you can buy everything from a five-baht cup of tea to a million-baht automobile. Daily 10 am to 10 pm. 444 Phyathai, phone 217-9111.

Seacon Square is reputed to be the largest mall in Asia, with movie theaters, shops and all manner of food vendors. 904 Srinakarin Rd., Prawet, phone 7218-88896.

Pantip Plaza is the ultimate source for electronics. Five-story mall with floor after floor of computers and electronic gear. Take a taxi there. Most shops open around 10:30 am; don't go later than 3 pm unless you want to spend hours in a traffic gridlock. New Petchburi Road in the Pratunam area.

Teck Heng Bookstore is a great place to browse: good selection of English- and foreign-language books on Asian affairs, art, culture and religion, as well as old maps, prints and European and U.S. periodicals. Monday-Saturday 10 am to 8:30 pm. 1326 New Rd. (between Oriental Avenue and Silom Road), phone 234-1836.

Foreign-language books are expensive in Thailand. If you want to grab one or two good secondhand ones, go to Elite Book House. They also carry lots of English-language periodicals. Monday-Saturday 10 am to 5 pm. Past Villa Supermarket, near Soi 33, 593/5 Sukhumvit Rd., phone 258-0221.

Despite the growing number of shopping centers and malls, the floating market persists as a Thai phenomenon. Merchants' paddleboats floating down canals and winding rivers are loaded with vegetables, fruit and flowers.

Several waterside markets can be found along the Chao Phraya River. Talat Thaywait, a plant and flower market open all week, is in the north end of town on Sam Sen Road near the National Library. Banglampoo Market is on Chakrapong near Sanam Luang and the Democracy Monument, and Talat Bangrak is on New Road, near the Taksin Sathorn Bridge at the south end of town. Another floating market is located west of Highway 338 on Klong Chak Phra. All are reachable by boat or taxi.

A famous open-air market is the vast Weekend Market at Chatuchak Park, off Phaholyothin Road near Lard Prao. This authentic Asian-style bazaar offers handicrafts, clothes, antiques and plenty of delicious food. Periodically Chatuchak is raided by authorities for the sale of endangered animal species. Open Saturday and Sunday, early to late. Prices are negotiable. Paholyothin Road, across from the northern bus terminal.

A similar market assembles Sundays at Wat Mahat, near the river between the Grand Palace and Thammasat University. 7 am to 5 or 6 pm.

Near the Memorial Bridge (Saphan Phut) is Phak Klong Talad. Fresh produce and flowers are brought there by boat every morning from the farms of Thonburi.

But the most famous floating market by far is Damnem Saduak, which keeps outgrowing locations and moving on. It's now outside of town, 65 mi/105 km south in Ratchaburi Province. Bus tours can be booked in Bangkok. They leave early enough to beat the traffic and stop in various locations to let you take pictures.

Jim Thompson's Thai Silk Shop is probably the most famous and reputable silk shop in Thailand. The shop bears the name of the man who revived the silk industry in Thailand in the 1940s. Daily 9 am to 9 pm. 9 Suriwong Rd., phone 2344-9004.

Another revived art that has captured international attention is celadon pottery, named for its translucent, jade-colored glaze. Thai Celadon specializes in vases and ornamental pieces. Daily 9 am to 6 pm. 18/7 Sukhumvit Soi 21, phone 258-3920.

PERFORMING ARTS Top-name rock acts, cultural dances and museum exhibitions are the highlights of this city's cultural roster. Posters are plastered all around town on fences and walls when a big pop act comes to town. The Thailand Cultural Center sponsors events year round. The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra's half-a-dozen performances a year at the National Theater attract the glamorous patrons and paparazzi of a Hollywood premiere, and tickets are very hard to come by. Scan the daily entertainment sections in the English-language newspapers, or ask your hotel's concierge or front desk. Or keep an eye out for "Bangkok City Watch" on IBS Channel 2 on cable TV. (Incidentally, don't expect to find a revival of The King and I at the local theater. The Thais find the musical to be terribly condescending to their royal family and culture.)

The National Theater features plays, music and dance, as well as half-a-dozen performances yearly by the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra. Rachinee Road, Phra Nakom, phone 221-0171.

The Thailand Cultural Center hosts traditional and nontraditional Thai and Western dance, music and variety shows and, occasionally, the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra. On the east side, near the Queen Sirikit Center, Ratcha Dapisek Road, phone 247-0013.

The National Stadium hosts sporting events and superstar performers such as Michael Jackson. In the city center, Rama I Road, phone 251-4109.

The Thailand Cultural Center (on the east side, near the Queen Sirikit Center, Ratcha Dapisek Road, phone 247-0013) and the Erawan Shrine are good places to see traditional Thai dances.

The National Theatre offers performances of traditional Thai dance. Rachinee Road, Phra Nakom, phone 221-0171.

Patravadi Theatre is a riverside, open-air theater that presents masked khon dances, shadow puppets and classical and modern works. 69/1 Soi Wat Rakang, Arunamarin Road across the river in Thonburi from the Grand Palace, phone 412-7287-8.

Some restaurants -- the Baan Thai, next to the Rex Hotel, is one -- have dance shows at dinner.

If you like opera, you might ask at your hotel to see if any productions of the khon are playing in town. The khon is a musical version of the Ramayana, the Hindu saga. (Sita, the beautiful wife of Rama, an incarnation of the god Vishnu, is kidnapped by the demon king Tosakanth. In an effort to rescue her, Rama wages war against the 10-headed demon.) Productions all feature fantastic costumes, music and song (with English subtitles). Call 224-1342 at the National Theater.

When the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra performs, the National Theater is filled to capacity. A ticket for one of their performances will run you between 250 and 2,500 baht. Phone 221-0171.

NIGHTLIFE


Still known as "Sin City," Bangkok has become a wee bit tamer since its days as a haven for soldiers fighting in Vietnam. Though the infamous Patpong Road still flourishes, it has adopted a milder demeanor. The sex shows have retreated to second-story lounges (expect to be propositioned from the moment you walk upstairs), and streets lined with tables and potted plants take on an almost respectable air at night, when tourists and Thais alike sip overpriced drinks and watch the world go by. For a less touristy view of Bangkok's sex trade, Soi Cowboy (off Sukhumvit Road and Soi 12 or Asoke) and Nana Plaza (on Soi 4 opposite the Nana Hotel) should suffice. The Sarasin District, near Lumphini Park, echoes with the sounds of American blues and jazz every night of the week. The Bamboo Bar, in the Oriental Hotel, is one of the finest jazz venues outside of Chicago or New Orleans.

Note Patpong I and II are the two infamous streets running parallel to each other between Silom Road and Surawongse Road. In the Patpong area and in the establishments on Soi Cowboy and at the Nana Plaza (at Soi 4 and Washington Square), there's plenty to see for the curious, but extreme caution is advised if you frequent the bars. Consorting with strangers can prove hazardous to your health and threaten ownership of your wallet.

Calypso Cabaret is a campy, Las Vegas-style revue featuring dance, song and burlesque performed by a "slew of lovely ladies" (actually, they're men). This might not be everyone's cup of tea, but the show has a touch of class. Reservations suggested. Daily 8:30 pm and 10 pm. 300 baht, including one drink. Full bar. All credit cards. Ambassador Hotel, 171 Soi 11-13 Sukhumvit Rd., phone 616-3556.

Spasso's, on the lobby level of the Grand Hyatt Erawan, offers lively foreign rock bands in an elegant setting. Not a great place for conversation, but you can communicate on the dance floor. Booze flows; so does your cash. 10 pm to 2 am nightly. Credit cards, no cover. 494 Ratchdamri Rd., phone 254-1234.

The Bamboo Bar is one of Bangkok's most luxurious clubs and has the most prestigious address and offers top-name American jazz acts. Credit cards, no cover, one-drink minimum. Band plays nightly 9 pm to 1 am. The Oriental Hotel, 48 Oriental Ave., phone 236-0400.

Blues Jazz is a popular nightspot with fusion jazz Monday-Thursday, rock/blues/jazz Friday-Saturday. Monday-Saturday 8 pm to 1 am. No credit cards, no cover. Full bar. Sukhumvit Soi 53, phone 258-7747.

Brown Sugar offers good live jazz in an authentic, smoky, loud environment. Tables are set outside in good weather. No credit cards, no cover. Liquor and beer. Nightly 9 pm to 1 am. Sarasin Road, phone 250-0103.

Hard Rock Cafe hosts the best Top 40, soul, rock and reggae cover bands in Bangkok. It's popular with Thais and foreigners alike. Credit cards, no cover. Food, booze and beer. Nightly music 8:30 pm to 1 am. Siam Square, 965 Rama I Rd., phone 251-0792.

The Cyclone Disco, at the Amari Airport Hotel, offers high-tech ambience. Nightly 9 pm to 1 am. Cover: 400 baht. Credit cards. 333 Cherd Wudthakas Rd., phone 566-1020.

Bubbles, in the Dusit Hotel, is the city's most popular hotel disco. Dressy crowd prevails. Monday-Saturday 9 pm to 2 am. Cover: Sunday-Thursday 175 baht (includes one drink). Friday-Saturday 350 baht (includes two drinks). Credit cards. 946 Rama IV Rd., phone 236-0450.

Narcissus, a raucous hot spot for foreigners and locals alike, provides both live music and deejayed Top 40 from the U.S. and the U.K. A bit seedy but fun. Nightly 9 pm to 3 am. Cover is 250 baht (includes one drink). Credit cards. 112 Sukhumvit Soi 23, phone 258-4805.

Phoebus Amphitheater Complex. Described as looking like Moonbase Alpha, this club boasts the most up-to-date lighting, laser and sound technology in the world. Rock music, always packed. Nightly 9 pm to 2 am. Rachadapisek Rd., phone 245-5545.

CM2, a play on the name Siam Square, is a multithemed spot with different "entertainment zones." Nightly 7 pm to 2 am. Novotel Siam, Siam Square, Soi 6, phone 255-688.

The Babylon is one of the best gay bars in town. Clean and elegant. Monday-Friday 5 to 11 pm; Saturday, Sunday and holidays 3 pm to midnight. 200 baht cover charge. 50 Soi Atthakarn Prasit, off Sathorn Tai, phone 213-2108.

DJ Station attracts the trendier gay set. It's packed on weekends. The 200 baht cover includes two drinks. 8/6-8 Silom, Soi 2, phone 266-4029.

Peppermint, in the busy Patpong 1 area, is small but very popular and invariably crowded on weekends. The Thai rich and famous often appear here. No phone.

Bobby's Arms is a popular hangout for visitors. Very British, aside from the live jazz and Dixieland music. Daily 11 am to 1 am. Credit cards. Serves food, spirits and beer. 2 Soi Patpong, phone 233-6828.

In the popular Sarasin area, Old West Saloon puts on the face of the frontier. Loud country and western bands perform nightly. Worth the trip, though you won't see Thais in cowboy hats doing the two-step. Nightly 6 pm to 1 am, music starts at 8 pm. Credit cards. Serves food, spirits and beer. 231/17 Soi Sarisan, phone 252-9510.

The New Hair and Hound, a British-style pub, is a quieter place on Soi Cowboy where local expats go for brew, a meal or to watch soccer matches. Smack in the middle of Soi Cowboy, it's great to sit outside in front of the bar, under a fan, and watch the frenetic street life happen around you. Be prepared to meet all kinds of people -- including workers from Middle East oil fields -- while sharing a beer. Phone 259-5391.

Thermae Coffee House is a legendary meeting place that's been in continuous operation since the Vietnam War, although it recently moved to new quarters just a few yards down the road from where it flourished for almost 40 years. Around 11 pm the crowd starts to drift in and the joint starts to rock. By 2 pm when most of the bars at Soi Nana and Soi Cowboy have shut down, more people arrive and pack the place until dawn. On the sleazy side, but vibrant. Drinks are cheap, and if you really want it, you can get coffee. In the Ruamchitt building that also houses the Rumachitt Hotel and the Marble House Traditional Thai Massage Parlor. No phone.

RECREATION


Though early mornings are pleasant, Bangkok's steamy climate is a deterrent to those who enjoy watching and participating in sports. Some of the major hotels offer air-conditioned sports and fitness facilities, but the sport that's increasing in popularity is one that is necessarily played out of doors: golf. More than 20 courses are within close reach of the city. Thai boxing (which allows kicking) is the country's most famous sport, and exhibitions and championship matches are held weekly.

The Royal Dusit Golf Course is the most convenient course to the city. Championship 18-hole course, par 66. Daily 6 am to 6 pm. Fees: Monday-Friday 320 baht, Saturday and Sunday 530 baht. Phitsanuloke Road, phone 281-4320.

The Krungthep Kritha Golf Course, 15 mi/24 km east of the city center, offers an 18-hole or 9-hole course. Daily 5 am to 5 pm. Fees: Monday-Friday 300 baht, Saturday and Sunday 500 baht. 516 Krungthep Kritha Rd., Hua Mark, phone 374-6063 or 374-0491.

Unico Golf Course, 15 mi/24 km east of the city, near Krungthep Kritha Golf Course, is a championship 18-hole course, par 72. Daily 5:30 am to 4 pm. Fees: Monday-Friday 535 baht, Saturday and Sunday 1070 baht. 47 Mu 7 Krungthep Kritha, Prawet, Phra Khanong, phone 377-9038.

The Hilton Hotel, in the city center, has an extensive recreation center with tennis courts, squash courts, gym (featuring weight machines, free weights, treadmills and stationary cycles), large swimming pool and restaurant. Daily 7 am to 10 pm. 300 baht for nonguests. 2 Witthayu Rd., phone 253-0123.

World Club is the best of the private clubs, with a giant gym, free weights, cycles, treadmills and aerobics classes. No pool. Near the Grand Hyatt in the center of town. Daily 8 am to 8 pm. 350 baht. 97-121 Bangkok Bazaar Center, Ratchadamri Road, phone 251-7647.

The YMCA, on the south side of the city, has limited facilities: pool, badminton court and an outdoor gym with free weights. Daily 7 am to 9 pm. 75 baht per day. 27 South Sathorn Rd., phone 287-2727.

Colony Sauna is a predominantly gay health club with swimming pool, steam room, sauna, gym (free weights, treadmills, cycles and weight machines) and a restaurant. Daily 3 pm to midnight. 200 baht. 117 Soi Charoensuk, Sukhumvit Soi 55, phone 391-4393.

Massage is a Thai tradition for both men and women, taken for granted as one of life's simple joys. Traditional massage is an ancient and honorable profession that's a bit more bone bending than Westerners often expect. Once you have enjoyed (survived) a traditional Thai massage, you'll be completely relaxed. Thai massage should cost approximately 150 baht per hour and can be found in many traditional massage parlors. Two of these are Marble House at 199 Sukhumvit Rd. near Soi 12, phone 651-0905; and Buathip Thai Massage, 4/13 Soi 5, Sukhumvit Road, phone 255-1045. Many hotels also have legitimate massage services; ask at yours.

Massage is taught as well as given at the Wat Po, Bangkok's oldest temple. A 30-hour course in the traditional southern style is taught for 3,000 baht (in addition to the daily entrance fee). Thye Wang and Sanam Chai Road, phone 222-0933.

Sathip Swimming Pool, on the eastern edge of the city, offers a lap pool, as well as tennis and badminton courts. Daily 8 am to midnight. 250-baht membership fee, 40 baht per visit. 140 Soi, 56 Sukhumvit Rd., phone 331-2037.

Rowboats and paddleboats can be rented at both Lumphini Park and Chatuchak Park for 40 baht an hour.

Lumphini Park and Chatuchak Park are popular with joggers in the early morning and early evenings. Avoid the parks after dark.

Hash House Harriers is the ever-popular running club. Bangkok H3 is known affectionately as the drinking club with a running problem. Contact Randall Burke on his mobile phone: 01-406-8896.

For current information on sports events in Bangkok, check the sports sections of The Bangkok Post and The Nation, or call the Sports Promotion Organization of Thailand, phone 377-6423.

The following clubs sponsor horse races every other Sunday: The Royal Bangkok Sports Club, 1 Henri Dunant Rd., phone 251-0181; and The Royal Turf Club of Thailand, 183 Phitsanuloke Rd., phone 280-0020. Races begin at 12:30 pm and admission is 50-100 baht.

Lumphini Stadium, near Lumphini Park, hosts Thai kickboxing matches every Tuesday, Friday and Saturday at 6 pm. 100 baht. Rama IV Road, phone 252-8765.

The National Stadium, in the city center, offers a range of spectator sports, including soccer matches. Rama I Road, phone 251-4109.

Ratchadamnoen Boxing Stadium is another site for Thai kickboxing. 1 Ratchadamnoen Rd. (near the Tourism Authority of Thailand), phone 281-4205.

DAY TRIPS


To Ayutthaya, the old capital of Thailand. Founded in AD 1350, it remains an archaeological treasure with an extensive collection of temples (some well maintained) and Buddhist relics. About 55 mi/90 km from Bangkok via Highway 340. Take a bus from the north/northeastern bus station, near Chatuchak Park (Phaholythin Road, phone 271-0102). Buses leave nearly every hour, and the cost is 50-100 baht. The entrance fee to the historical park is 200 baht. This is an easy day trip. There are some good restaurants near the park that suit Western tastes, if you should be tiring of Thai food.

The Oriental Hotel offers an all-day tour of Ayutthaya via the Chao Phraya River on its exclusive yacht The Oriental Queen. This is a pricey tour, but the lavish surroundings, excellent food and knowledgeable guides are worth it. Depart by bus and return by boat, or vice versa. 1,400 baht per person, includes lunch (available either direction). Reservations required. Daily 8 am to 5 pm. 48 Oriental Ave., phone 236-0420.

To Kanchanaburi/River Kwai, famous for the Death Railway and the prison camps that populated the area during World War II. (Malaria is endemic in this area, so take plenty of insect repellent and use it liberally.) Numerous sightseeing possibilities include a museum dedicated to the people who died there during the war and a train ride on the Death Railway. There are also restaurants on floating rafts and places to shop. The recent discovery of Neolithic burial sites has increased the historical importance of this area. Contact the tourist office to find out which local tour companies arrange trips to the burial grounds.

The area is 80 mi/130 km from Bangkok via Highway 323 -- less than two hours by car or bus and less than three hours by train. Buses leave from Hua Lampong, the bus station on the west end of the city, across the river from the Grand Palace (Charansantiwong Road, phone 435-1199). There are early morning departures at 6 and 7 am -- the best times to leave to avoid traffic and to allow for a full day in Kanchanaburi. 50 baht each way. Going by train is difficult in one day and not recommended, although the rail journey is lovely for those who want to stay overnight. 50 baht each way. Admission to the museum is 50 baht. Major Home Travel Agency offers a full-day tour from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi via bus, including lunch, a train ride and a boat ride on the River Kwai. 650 baht per person. Reservations required. 120/13 Rajprarop Rd., phone 250-1685.

To Damnoem Saduak. The famous floating markets in Damnoem Saduak (about 65 mi/105 km south of Bangkok) are small commercial waterways abuzz with activity every day of the week. World Travel Service offers early morning boat tours. Leave the Oriental Hotel by bus, then transfer to a boat for the 15-minute trip to the main market. Return to Bangkok by 6 pm. This trip includes a cultural show and lunch at a nearby resort. 1,300 baht per person. Reservations required. 48 Oriental Ave., phone 236-0400.

To Pattaya. A beach resort community that's seen better days. At the height of the Vietnam War, it was a spectacular getaway for weekend R & R for thousands of soldiers. Today the local newspaper, the Pattaya Mail, is rife with stories of foreigners who get into trouble there. Its main attractions are an endless series of outdoor beer bars, sleazy strip bars and polluted beaches. Outside the town there are still some lovely beaches, particularly Jomtien Beach. Pattaya is reachable by bus or taxi. It's about a three-hour drive and should cost between 500-800 baht each way by cab. (90 mi/150 km southeast of Bangkok.

If you go to Pattaya, it will take you a couple of days to see Nong Nooch Village, a landscaped resort with cultural shows, folk dancing, martial arts displays and traditional ceremonies; Pattaya Park, a water theme and amusement park that the kids will like; Mini Siam, a miniature version of the major attractions in Thailand and parts of Europe (interesting, but in need of maintenance); Pattaya Crocodile Farm, a new attraction (and another tribute to the Thai belief that crocodiles are the primary reason Western tourists come to Thailand); and the Elephant Kraal elephant show.

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